Cornucopia 22 highlights

	CORNUCOPIA Issue 22, 2001, price £8 (US$16) Home ADD TO BASKET Volume 1 1 2 3 4 5 6 Volume 2 special volume offer 7 8 9 10 11 12 Volume 3 special volume offer 13 14 15 16 17 18 Volume 4 special volume offer 19 20 21 22 23 24 Volume 5 special volume offer 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 Special Istanbul Edition 32 Volume 6 33 34 35 36 37
HIGHLIGHTS OF CORNUCOPIA 22
THE SULTAN'S CHALET By Philip Mansel Photographs: Fritz von der Schulenburg	The world's grandest chalet was built by Abdülhhamid II for the visit of Kaiser Wilhelm II in 1889 and was a powerhouse of political activity in the final years of the empire. Today the house, set in the grounds of Yildiz Palace on a hill in Istanbul, is all but forgotten, Philip Mansel treads softly through its silent halls.	Also by Philip Mansel: Cornucopia 34: Painting his Way into History: the lasting legacy of the last Caliph

THE BARD OF BYZANTIUM A Tribute to Sir Steven Runiciman By Antony Bryer	Sir Steven Runciman was a supreme story teller, whether at the dinner table or in the majestic sweep of his historical writing. Fellow-Byzantinist Anthony Bryer recalls an elegant figure for whom history was about the destinies of man.

HOT NEWS FROM KULA By Roger Williams	Dramatic volcanic domes dramatically dominate the landscape around Kula. Unseen, though are the underground thermal waters that may one day breathe new life into the town and its remarkable Ottoman houses.


THE BERLIN BRAIN DRAIN By Norman Stone With illustrations from Haymatloz: Exil in der Türkei 1933-45	In the period surrounding the Second World War, many of Germany's greatest brains found a haven in Turkey. Their influence was wide - from economics to town planning, from medicine to music. Norman Stone looks back at the leading lights of this remarkable exodus. 'Of all the great German brains that took refuge in Turkey between 1933 and 1953, the most human seems to have been Professor Gerhard Kessler. Professor Kessler had been brought out of a Nazi concentration camp in 1933 by the Turks; he had been a democratic Party member of the Saxon parliament, had become professor of sociology at the new Ankara University, and greatly loved Turkey. The Turks loved him, too: he was a generous and generous-minded polymath, who put up poor students in his own house, gave unstintingly of his time, wrote several very useful textbooks, and had a curious hobby - Jewish surnames. Kessler eventually went back to Germany - and a very high academic position - but he pined for Turkey and returned in the mid-1950s to the new American-funded University of Erzurum. By then, to hold a Turkish chair, you had to become a Turkish citizen, and there was a ceremony: flowers tears, the national anthem, medals, men kissing each other on the cheek, and emotional speeches from the head of this and the head of that. Professor Kessler's salary was halved, as Turks were paid less than foreigners, but I very much doubt he minded - peace to his soul (he died in 1963)...'

THE SECRET GARDEN OF KASNAK Text and photographs by Kate Clow	High in the Taurus Mountains. Chris Gardner finds the remote Kasnak Forest carpeted with peonies in spring. Photographs by Kate Clow ' Dawn reveals towering limestone peaks tinted with soft sunlight and mirrored in the calm of a vast inland lake. It is a cool May morning at Lake Egirdir, in Turkey's southwest, and we are here to search out the rare orchids and tiny alpine flowers which thrive in this rugged landscape. As any self-respecting botanist will tell you, Turkey in spring is a land off bewildering variety. Here, within the Taurus Mountains, lie many different habitats, each filled with myriad floral gems. Yet one particular day, the day we spent among carpets of peonies, stands out from all the rest...'	Other articles on Turkey's lakes district: SILENCE OF THE LAMMERGEIERS Walking high above the lakes, by Kate Clow Cornucopia 17 LA VIE EN ROSE The Isparta rose harvest, by Martyn Rix Cornucopia 23 Books that touch on Turkey's lakes district: ST PAUL TRAIL Kate Clow's latest book of walks leads across the Taurus Mountains from Aspendos in the south to Lake Egirdir in the north. See Caroline Finkel's review.


RETURN OF THE NATIVE By Ates Orga	When Cornucopia sent Ates Orga to cover the Istanbul Festival, it was no routine assignment. It was a chance for him to retrace the footsteps of his famous father - the writer Irfan Orga - and to see his homeland again after an absence of half a century

MEATBALL WIZZARD Cookery By Berrin Torolsan	From Alaska to Australia, from Mongolia to Mexico, meatballs come in a thousand guises. Berrin Torolsan works magic with mincmeat. The recipes: Cizbiz Kofte (sizzling kofte), kuru kofte (crispy kofte), Sahanda Kofte (simmered kofte), Kadin Budu Kofte (Lady's Thighs), Içli Kofte (nut-filled rissoles), Sucuk Koftesi (spicy garlic kofte), Eksili Kofte (tangy meatballs) 'Three koftes stand out in my memory. Just thinking of them makes my taste buds ache. The first was in my early childhood: freshly grilled cizbiz kofte, a round patty the size of a flattened walnut, so named because it makes a delicious 'jiz-biz' sizzling sound as it cooks...'	See the complete Cornucopia Cookery Listing

MUSIC TOA SULTAN'S EAR By Emre Araci	Visitors to 1830s Istanbul were astonished to hear the strains of Rossini and Donizetti performed by Turkish musicians. As Emre Araci reveals, Western music was the passion of Sultan Mahmut II	\ Click CD cover above to read the article in full and to order Emre Araci's CD
BOOKS REVIEWED IN CORNUCOPIA 22 David Barchard reviews: A Shared World: Early Christians and Muslims in The Early Modern Mediterranean, by Molly Greene (Princeton) and Romantic Communist: The Life and Works of Nazim Hikmet, by Saime Goksu and Edward Timms (Hurst) and Islam and Society in Turkey, by David Shankland (Eothen Press) Antony Wynn reviews: A Soup for the Qan: Chinese Dietry Medicine of the Mongol Era as Seen in Hu Szu-hui's Yin-shan Cheng-yao, ed. Paul d Buell and Eugene Anderson, with notes by Charles Perry (Kegan Paul)
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