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CORNUCOPIA
Issue 28,
2003
£10 (US$20.00)
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Photo: Russian Ethnographic Museum, St Petersburg / Hessenhuis,
Antwerp
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Cornucopia 28, 2003 |
CORNUCOPIA NO
28 COVER STORY
|
The
Caucasus
THE PEOPLES THAT TIME FORGOT
By Robert Chenciner
With commentary on the
beautiful images of Caucasian peoples from the Russian Ethnographic Museum.,St Petersburg exhibited at the
Hessenhuis, Antwerp in 2001
Order the book
| 
| The Russian love affair with the Caucasus has been long and
cruel, though the outside world knows little of the multitude of ethnic groups who for millennia have
inhabited this remote strip of land the size of France.
In
2001, however, a remarkable catalogue was published. It reveals a unique collection of artefacts which for
years have stood gathering dust in the vaults of a St Petersburg
museum.
Here Robert Chenciner examines the book and
introduces a selection of its poignant photographs
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CONNOISSEUR
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Painting
CAVALCADE OF
COLOUR
The paintings of Fausto Zonaro at the YKB,
Galatasary, Istanbul
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| Philip Mansel on the Ottoman court painter Fausto Zonaro, whose work is commemorated in a landmark
biography published this year to coincide with a major exhibitionof his work in
Istanbul.
The book is already out of print and is only
available from the Cornucopia Book Shop.
Read Philip Mansel's article in full and order
online
|
Porcelain
HIDDEN TREASURES
Important blue and white in Istanbul's Ibrahim
Pasha Palace (Museum of Turkish and Islamic Art)
| 
| In an exhibition of art from the vaults of the Museum of
Turkish and Islamic Art in Istanbul, John Carswell discovers the first blue and white porcelain ever recorded
in Europe.
John Carswell's book Chinese Porcelain Around
the World is excerpted in Cornucopia 25
- The book itself is available from
the Cornucopia Online
Bookshop
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Photography
EPHEMERA
A solo exhibition of the photographs of Barbara
and Zafer Baran at the Blue Gallery, London
| 
| Barbara and Zafer Baran's delicately tinted, large-scale
photographic work - each image is roughly a metre square - is on show at the Blue Gallery, 15 Gt Sutton
Street, London EC1V 0BX.
Cornucopia 25:
Zafer Baran's abstract images were the subject of the cover story of Cornucopia's twenty-fifth issue in 2002.
For further information about the Barans' work visit their
website, www.zb-baran.co.uk, and to contact the artist themselves, write to mail@zb-baran.co.uk
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CORNUCOPIA NO 28 BLACK SEA TRAVEL: THE KACKAR
MOUNTAINS
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| Black
Sea
PEAK PERFORMANCE
- A 24-page celebration of Turkey's alpine Black Sea mountains by Ali Özgü Caneri and Kate
Clow
Photographs: Kate
Clow
Turkeys Kaçkar Mountains, a daunting
extension of the Caucasus high above the Black Sea, are only for the intrepid. Ali Özgü Caneri and
Kate Clow took advantage of the short trekking season to scale two of the saw-edged
summits.
The crags of Seytan Kayalari, the Devils
Rocks, tower over Dilberdüzü, base camp for the ascent of Mount Kaçkar.
|

| 'From
a blossoming pass overlooking the Hevek valley and, beyond, the plains of Erzurum, we hear the wild cries of
falcons flying past on a shopping spree to feed the family.'
Left: the drifts of meadow flowers in the
Hevek valley are overwhelming. At 2200m, poppies and campanulas replace the scabious and vetches of the lower
slopes
|

| TRAVEL
NOTES
For details of this 12-day: kackarmountains.com.
A trekking company
offering this route as a package with guide, catering, tents and mules is Middle Earth Travel, Göreme,
tel 90(0)384 271 2559, middleearthtravel.com.
Kate Clows book
The Lycian Way: Turkeys First Long Distance Walk, £12.99, is available to subscribers
at £11.99. See book
offers.
|
 |
CORNUCOPIA NO 28 BLACK SEA TRAVEL: GEORGIA
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GEORGIA ON MY MIND
Text and photographs by Min Hogg
| 
| Turkeys northeastern neighbour, Georgia, is a fairy tale country with a hard edge, and its
entrancing landscape of isolated hilltop cathedrals and medieval monasteries just demands to be explored. Min
Hogg tells the story of her visit in words and pictures
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CORNUCOPIA NO 28 RUSSIANS IN ISTANBUL I
|
 |
TROTSKY ON
PRINKIPO
By Norman
Stone
Photographs from the David King Collection ,
London
| 
| Exiled by Stalin in 1929, Trotsky went to live on the
Princes Islands near Istanbul. For four years he fished, wrote and developed the doctrine of Trotskyism.
These remarkable photographs from the David King Collection show a quiet, ordered existence. Norman Stone
uncovers the plotting that lay behind it
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CORNUCOPIA NO 28 RUSSIANS IN ISTANBUL
II
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 |
 |
DOME FROM DOME
Inside the Russian churches of
Karaköy
By Owen
Matthews
Photographs by Simon
Wheeler
Built as way-stations for Orthodox pilgrims on
their way to the Holy Land or Mount Athos, the rooftop Russian churches of Karakoy are a forgotten corner of
the motherland in the heart of Istanbul
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CORNUCOPIA NO 28 R E V I E W S
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BOOK
REVIEWS
By Maureen Freely, Antony
Wynn,David Barchard and Venetia Porter
| - | 
| Nazim Hikmet: where passion meets politics; Monica Whitlock: the need to heed the Muslim message;
Godfrey Goodwin: memoirs of a gentleman scholar; Clive Smith: high drama in sixteenth-century
Yemen
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CORNUCOPIA NO
28 COOKERY
|
- GOLDEN OPPORTUNITY
-
- Carrots have a colourful past and the gift of making us see in the
dark, but there is more to them than meets the eye.
-
- By Berrin Torolsan
-
-
- Photographs: Berrin Torolsan
| 
| Carrots, I confess, never seemed wildly exciting to me. There were always there - so you never had
a chance to miss them - but they weren't on a par with aubergines, say, or artichokes. I'm sure I am not
alone. Cookery writers rarely dwell on them. Yet the more I learn about carrots, the more fascinating they
become...
Recipes
- Havuç Çorbasi /
Carrot Soup
- Havuç Püresi / Carrot Purée
- Havuç Tava / Crispy Fritters with Hazelnut Tarator Sauce
- Havuç Tursusu / Pickled Carrot
- Havuç Salatasi / Salad of
Grated Carrots
- Havuçlu Kek / Carrot and Walnut Cake
- Havuç Helvasi / Carrot Sweetmeat
-
- See a selection of Berrin Torolsan's
seasonal recipes in Cornucopia online
|
CORNUCOPIA NO 28 TRADE SECRETS
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Trade
Secrets
LOVE'S LABOUR
The art of
filigree
By Berrin Torolsan
| 
| As every Turkish girl will tell you, a
bride's best friend is a telkari, or filigree, amulet. Berrin Torolsan vists the last place in the country
where they are made.
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CORNUCOPIA NO 28
CONNOISSEUR Philip Mansel Zonaro, John
Carswell Discovering Europe's first blue and white, Philippa Scott and Daniel Shaffer
Washington rugs. Plus Zafer and Barbara Baran's new photograph show BOOKS Maureen Freely Nazim Hikmet Antony Wynn Beyong the Oxus, by
Monica Whitlock, David Barchard Godfrey Goodwin's Life's
Episodes. Venetia Porter Lightning over Yemen. To read
reviews and order books, visit the Cornucopia Bookshop COLUMNS Charles Perry
Off the Eaten Track; Azize Ethem Village Voices, Anastasia Ashman City
Life RESTAURANT REVIEWS:
Andrew Finkel, on the eve of his departure for the US, picks his perfect last
supper. Owen Matthews dines - and drinks - a la Russe. Christopher Ryan shares a table with Hüseyn Ozer, founder of the pioneer
restaurant chain, Sofra (also see Christopher Ryan on Iznik Restaurant, Islington - Iznik Restaurant reviewed - full
text) |
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