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CORNUCOPIA

Issue 28, 2003

£10 (US$20.00)

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Volume 1
1 2 3 4 5 6

Volume 2
special volume offer
7 8 9 10 11 12

Volume 3
special volume offer
13 14 15 16 17 18

Volume 4
special volume offer
19 20 21 22 23 24

Volume 5
special volume offer
25 26 27 28 29 30 31

Special Istanbul Edition 32

Volume 6
33 34 35 36 37

Photo: Russian Ethnographic Museum, St Petersburg / Hessenhuis, Antwerp

All rights reserved

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Cornucopia 28, 2003

 


CORNUCOPIA NO 28 COVER STORY

The Caucasus

THE PEOPLES THAT TIME FORGOT

By Robert Chenciner

With commentary on the beautiful images of Caucasian peoples from the Russian Ethnographic Museum.,St Petersburg exhibited at the Hessenhuis, Antwerp in 2001

 

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The Russian love affair with the Caucasus has been long and cruel, though the outside world knows little of the multitude of ethnic groups who for millennia have inhabited this remote strip of land the size of France.

In 2001, however, a remarkable catalogue was published. It reveals a unique collection of artefacts which for years have stood gathering dust in the vaults of a St Petersburg museum.

Here Robert Chenciner examines the book and introduces a selection of its poignant photographs


CONNOISSEUR
 

Painting

CAVALCADE OF COLOUR

The paintings of Fausto Zonaro at the YKB, Galatasary, Istanbul

Philip Mansel on the Ottoman court painter Fausto Zonaro, whose work is commemorated in a landmark biography published this year to coincide with a major exhibitionof his work in Istanbul.

The book is already out of print and is only available from the Cornucopia Book Shop.

Read Philip Mansel's article in full and order online

Porcelain

HIDDEN TREASURES

Important blue and white in Istanbul's Ibrahim Pasha Palace (Museum of Turkish and Islamic Art)

In an exhibition of art from the vaults of the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Art in Istanbul, John Carswell discovers the first blue and white porcelain ever recorded in Europe.

John Carswell's book Chinese Porcelain Around the World is excerpted in Cornucopia 25

The book itself is available from the Cornucopia Online Bookshop

Photography

EPHEMERA

A solo exhibition of the photographs of Barbara and Zafer Baran at the Blue Gallery, London

Barbara and Zafer Baran's delicately tinted, large-scale photographic work - each image is roughly a metre square - is on show at the Blue Gallery, 15 Gt Sutton Street, London EC1V 0BX.

Cornucopia 25: Zafer Baran's abstract images were the subject of the cover story of Cornucopia's twenty-fifth issue in 2002.

For further information about the Barans' work visit their website, www.zb-baran.co.uk, and to contact the artist themselves, write to mail@zb-baran.co.uk


CORNUCOPIA NO 28 BLACK SEA TRAVEL: THE KACKAR MOUNTAINS

Black Sea

PEAK PERFORMANCE

A 24-page celebration of Turkey's alpine Black Sea mountains by Ali Özgü Caneri and Kate Clow

Photographs: Kate Clow

Turkey’s Kaçkar Mountains, a daunting extension of the Caucasus high above the Black Sea, are only for the intrepid. Ali Özgü Caneri and Kate Clow took advantage of the short trekking season to scale two of the saw-edged summits.

The crags of Seytan Kayalari, the Devil’s Rocks, tower over Dilberdüzü, base camp for the ascent of Mount Kaçkar.

 

'From a blossoming pass overlooking the Hevek valley and, beyond, the plains of Erzurum, we hear the wild cries of falcons flying past on a shopping spree to feed the family.'

 

Left: the drifts of meadow flowers in the Hevek valley are overwhelming. At 2200m, poppies and campanulas replace the scabious and vetches of the lower slopes

TRAVEL NOTES

For details of this 12-day: kackarmountains.com.

A trekking company offering this route as a package with guide, catering, tents and mules is Middle Earth Travel, Göreme, tel 90(0)384 271 2559, middleearthtravel.com.

Kate Clow’s book ‘The Lycian Way: Turkey’s First Long Distance Walk’, £12.99, is available to subscribers at £11.99. See book offers.


CORNUCOPIA NO 28 BLACK SEA TRAVEL: GEORGIA
 

GEORGIA ON MY MIND

Text and photographs by Min Hogg

 

Turkey’s northeastern neighbour, Georgia, is a fairy tale country with a hard edge, and its entrancing landscape of isolated hilltop cathedrals and medieval monasteries just demands to be explored. Min Hogg tells the story of her visit in words and pictures


CORNUCOPIA NO 28 RUSSIANS IN ISTANBUL I

TROTSKY ON PRINKIPO

By Norman Stone

Photographs from the David King Collection , London

Exiled by Stalin in 1929, Trotsky went to live on the Princes Islands near Istanbul. For four years he fished, wrote and developed the doctrine of Trotskyism. These remarkable photographs from the David King Collection show a quiet, ordered existence. Norman Stone uncovers the plotting that lay behind it


CORNUCOPIA NO 28 RUSSIANS IN ISTANBUL II
 

DOME FROM DOME

Inside the Russian churches of Karaköy

By Owen Matthews

Photographs by Simon Wheeler

Built as way-stations for Orthodox pilgrims on their way to the Holy Land or Mount Athos, the rooftop Russian churches of Karakoy are a forgotten corner of the motherland in the heart of Istanbul


CORNUCOPIA NO 28 R E V I E W S

BOOK

REVIEWS

By Maureen Freely, Antony Wynn,David Barchard and Venetia Porter

-

Nazim Hikmet: where passion meets politics; Monica Whitlock: the need to heed the Muslim message; Godfrey Goodwin: memoirs of a gentleman scholar; Clive Smith: high drama in sixteenth-century Yemen


CORNUCOPIA NO 28 COOKERY

GOLDEN OPPORTUNITY
 
Carrots have a colourful past and the gift of making us see in the dark, but there is more to them than meets the eye.
 
By Berrin Torolsan
 
 
Photographs: Berrin Torolsan

 

Carrots, I confess, never seemed wildly exciting to me. There were always there - so you never had a chance to miss them - but they weren't on a par with aubergines, say, or artichokes. I'm sure I am not alone. Cookery writers rarely dwell on them. Yet the more I learn about carrots, the more fascinating they become...

 

Recipes

Havuç Çorbasi / Carrot Soup
Havuç Püresi / Carrot Purée
Havuç Tava / Crispy Fritters with Hazelnut Tarator Sauce
Havuç Tursusu / Pickled Carrot
Havuç Salatasi / Salad of Grated Carrots
Havuçlu Kek / Carrot and Walnut Cake
Havuç Helvasi / Carrot Sweetmeat
 
See a selection of Berrin Torolsan's seasonal recipes in Cornucopia online


CORNUCOPIA NO 28 TRADE SECRETS

Trade Secrets

LOVE'S LABOUR

The art of filigree

By Berrin Torolsan

 

 

As every Turkish girl will tell you, a bride's best friend is a telkari, or filigree, amulet. Berrin Torolsan vists the last place in the country where they are made.


CORNUCOPIA NO 28

CONNOISSEUR Philip Mansel Zonaro, John Carswell Discovering Europe's first blue and white, Philippa Scott and Daniel Shaffer Washington rugs. Plus Zafer and Barbara Baran's new photograph show

BOOKS Maureen Freely Nazim Hikmet Antony Wynn Beyong the Oxus, by Monica Whitlock, David Barchard Godfrey Goodwin's Life's Episodes. Venetia Porter Lightning over Yemen. To read reviews and order books, visit the Cornucopia Bookshop

 

COLUMNS Charles Perry Off the Eaten Track; Azize Ethem Village Voices, Anastasia Ashman City Life

RESTAURANT REVIEWS: Andrew Finkel, on the eve of his departure for the US, picks his perfect last supper. Owen Matthews dines - and drinks - a la Russe. Christopher Ryan shares a table with Hüseyn Ozer, founder of the pioneer restaurant chain, Sofra (also see Christopher Ryan on Iznik Restaurant, Islington - Iznik Restaurant reviewed - full text)

 

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