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The Internet extension of Cornucopia, the magazine for connoisseurs of Turkey

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In issue 30...
 
EARLY JOURNEYS
 
The heart of a nomad: the intrepid New Yorker who caught the last caravans
 
Eye of a Pioneer: the first photographer beyond the Euphrates
 
Soul of the Empire:
The Frenchman who painted the Ottoman court
 
Plus: the Turks of Thrace, Jerusalem artichokes and the princely pasha of Crete
 
Cover photograph: Villager, by Josephine Powell

CORNUCOPIA

Issue 30, 2003/2004

£8 (US$16)

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Back issue highlights:

Volume 1
1 2 3 4 5 6

Volume 2
special volume offer
7 8 9 10 11 12

Volume 3
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13 14 15 16 17 18

Volume 4
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19 20 21 22 23 24

Volume 5
special volume offer
25 26 27 28 29 30 31

Special Istanbul Edition 32

Volume 6
33 34 35 36 37

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''We live in an age of networking. But Josephine is a net-weaver, a nomad who has spun the threads of her very own world'

Andrew Finkel pays tribute to a remarkable friend in the cover story of the new Cornucopia
 
 

Cover Story

Josephine Powell:
An American Nomad

By Andrew Finkel

There has been no road map in the life of Josephine Powell. As restless as the nomad tribes she followed, she has simply let things happen. But along the way, she has become a photographer and an expert on the nomads of Turkey and their textiles. And now she dreams of a permanent home for her exceptional kilims and photographs.
 
Links: See Josephine Powell

A Sarikeceli Yoruk with her child near Alanya in 1987

'Walking home on a cold evening, near Van, eastern Turkey, February 1979'
Photograph by Josephine Powell (copyright reserved).
 
From Josephine Powell, An American Nomad, by Andrew Finkel
Cornucopia 30, 2004
 

 

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No 30

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BEYOND THE EUPHRATES
 
Until 1950, no travellers were permitted to cross the Euphrates. Southeast Turkey was simply out of bounds. Among the first to visit when restrictions were finally lifted was the photographer Cafer Turkmen. Travelling by train, truck, Jeep and mule, he discovered a place of dramatic beauty and a way of life barely changed for thousands of years. Turkmen's pictures of this remote land, to which Cornucopia devotes thirty pages, are all the more poignant because roads would soon be built and villages of stone and adobe would vanish beneath concrete. He was the official photographer for two expeditions, led by the great German zoologist Curt Kosswig, in pursuit of two ancient species - a saltwater fish in the hills above Lake Van and the fabled bald ibis of Birecik. Here Cafer Turkmen tells the story of these groundbreaking journeys.
 
 
Links: also see The Wild East, by Min Hogg, with photographs by Manuel Citak in Cornucopia 24

ARCHITECTURE

FROM LUNACY TO DIPLOMACY
 
The Hotel de Lamballe was home to a doomed princess and an asylum for mad artists before it became Turkey’s embassy in Paris. In 1945 the young Nevin Menemencioglu came upon the elegant mansion when she was searching the city for a building where her uncle, the Turkish ambassador, could set up his mission. Patricia Daunt reveals the turbulent past behind its serene façade. Photographs by Jean Marie del Moral
 
Paris' Ottoman connection, see:
 
The Minister and the Monsignor, by Osman Streater Cornucopia 24
 
The Treasures of a Lost Dynasty: the Camondos, by Patricia Daunt, with photographs by Jean Marie del Moral (Cornucopia 26)
 

ART

PAINTER IN THE PALACE by Philip Mansel
 
The pictures that fired Europe's imagination with their visions of Istanbul and the Ottoman court are back in the city for the first time in more than 250 years. Philip Mansel looks at the extraordinary paintings of Jean Baptiste Vanmour
 
Links:
 
Philip Mansel is author of Constantinople, City of the World's Desire
 
Also see Guardi's Turkish paintings (based on Vanmour) in Art from a Distance, by Jean Michel Casa in Cornucopia 5
 
Other feature articles on the Ottomans in Western art include::

  • The Painted Word: Sir David Wilkie by David Blayney Brown, Cornucopia 1
  • A Case of Regency Exoticism: Thomas Hope and the Benaki drawings of Istanbul, by David Watkin (Cornucopia 5)
  • Order of the Bath: John Carswell asks what Ingres learnt from Lady Mary Wortley Montagu in Cornucopia 10.

Short articles include: A quieter vision: the pastels of Jean Etienne Liotard (see Cornucopia 3). A minister with portfolio: CG Lowenhielm (see Cornucopia 6)

THE TURKISH WORLD...

'The Turkish cemetery at Yassioren in the Rodop Mountains of northern Greece, close to the Bulgarian border.
 
Photograph: Ashley Gilbertson

FORGOTTEN CORNER OF A FOREIGN LAND
 
Abandoned in Greece at the end of the Ottoman Empire, the Turks of Thrace cling defiantly to their old ways.
By Owen Matthews
Photographs by Ashley Gilbertson
 
Links:
On the Ottoman diaspora
The City of Shadows: Kirkuk after the war. Owen Matthews and Ashley Gilbertson on Iraq's Turkoman citadel in Cornucopia 29.
 
On th Turks of China
Ashley Gilbertson's remarkable photographs of Xinjiang appear in Christian Tyler's cover story in Cornucopia 31.
 
On Ottoman Thrace:
The Holy Mountain: Ottoman Athos unveiled, by Anthony Bryer, with photographs by Graham Speake Cornucopia 15
 

The old town of Iskece, known in Greek as Xanthi, grew prosperous on the proceeds of tobacco. Turkish merchants built handsome townhouses side by side with Greeks.
 
Photograph: Ashley Gilbertson

REMARKABLE LIVES

THE PRINCELY PASHA OF CRETE

Cretan ballads portray Giritli Mustafa Naili Pasha as a monster who vowed to ‘eat up his enemies like an anchovy salad'. Even today propagandists revel in his reputation for cruelty.

In a controversial rereading of history based on what his contemporaries were actually writing, David Barchard debunks the myth and tells the extraordinary story of an Albanian boy soldier who became not only one of the richest men in the Ottoman Empire, but one that rulied Crete with an even-handedness many foreigners admired.

Image courtesy of Mustafa Naili Pasha's descendants Nilufer, Tayyibe and Mustafa Gulek.

Links:

David Barchard's famous lives of the Ottoman nineteenth century includes:

Colonel Fred Burnaby (Cornucopia 24)
Sir Herbert Chermside (Cornucopia 26)
Stratford Canning and Mustafa III (Cornucopia 27)
The remarkable Strangfords (Cornucopia 29)
 

Also in Cornucopia 30: A Lady of Letters, a review by David Barchard of elibron.com's reprint of the letters of Emelia Hornby in Constantinople during the Crimean War. "There are certain books one falls in love with at first reading. This, for me, is one of them."

COOKERY...

FRUITS OF THE EARTH: Jerusalem Artichokes
 
There’s nothing grand about the Jerusalem artichoke. The plant thrives on benign neglect, and its gnarled tubers look humble enough. Do not be deceived: its flavour is a revelation ­ subtle, sweet and quite irresistible.
Story and photographs by Berrin Torolsan
 
Recipes:
 
Yer Elmasi Corbasi
Jerusalem Artichoke Soup
 
Zeytinyagli Yer Elmasi
Jerusalem Artichokes with Olive Oil
 
Yer Elmasi Puresi
Pureed Jerusalem Artichokes
 
Yer Elmasi Tursusu
Pickled Jerusalem Artichokes
 
Links: see a selections of menus from Cornucopia

 
 
PLUS..

Remarkable Lives

 

Off the Eaten Track: Charles Perry pays tribute to the food historian Alan Davidson, who died in December

Books

David Barchard on Emelia Hornby's Constantinople During the Crimean War

Maureen Freely on Poetic Collaborations

Walter Denny on the powerful chemistry of Harald Bohmer

Antony Wynn on what Carole Blackwell heard from the women of Turkmenistan.
See review

Diaries

Connoisseur:
Art from Florence and Amsterdam joins the work of a local court painter in Istanbul for two major international exhibitions.
Links: Art Shows in Turkey
 
Private View:
Andrew Finkel pays tribute to Roger Short, the consul general who died in November's bombing, sees a glimmer of light on the financial horizon and struggles to count the zeros on his fuel bill.
 
Village Voices:
Harvesting her honey and sewing for success; welcoming guests and freezing out ladies of the night; following fortunes of he mayor and getting crushed in a media stampede... More tales of country life from Azize Ethem
 
Food for Thought:
Andrew Finkel on moreish mezes, Hettie Judah on the boho's new habitat