| CORNUCOPIA
Issue 35,
2006, price £21
ADD TO BASKET
SUBSCRIBE -
Volume 1
1
2
3
4
5
6
Volume 2
special volume offer
7
8
9
10
11
12
Volume 3
special volume offer
13
14
15
16
17
18
Volume 4
special volume offer
19
20
21
22
23
24
Volume 5
special volume offer
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
Special Istanbul Edition
32
Volume 6
33
34
35
36
37
HOME |
CORNUCOPIA 35
HIGHLIGHTS |
COVER STORY OTHMAR'S
DREAM The photographs of Othmar
Pferschy 1898-1981 | 
| - After the grim
years of the early 1920s, Turkey experienced a brief period of euphoria. A new Republic was born, and new
faces appeared in this land of hope, among them the brilliant but now forgotten photographer Othmar Pferschy
(18981984), who turned up on the Orient Express in 1926 and stayed for forty years. In 2005 his
daughter Astrid von Schell donated his archives to Istanbul Modern, who are now staging his first-ever
retrospective. Cornucopia has selected some of his most poetic images.
- Completing this tribute to a remarkable photographer, Norman Stone examines why it was that
so many Central Europeans were drawn to Turkey.
-
- Left: The Suleymaniye,
Istanbul
| The photographs in this article are from Under the
Light of the Republic, at Istanbul Modern until May 14, 2006 For more information about exhibitions at
Istanbul Modern, visit the museum's website You can order the catalogue of Under the
Light of the Republic, The Photographs of Othmar Pferschy online from Cornucopia |
CAPPADOCIA |
BY HORSE ACROSS THE
VOLCANIC VALLEYS
Travels
in Cappadocia By Susan Wirth with
contributions by David Barchard Photographs by Jürgen Frank | 
| - Cappadocia, ‘Land of the Beautiful Horse’, was once famous for the fine steeds that
bore its valiant knights. Few horses are left, but they can still transport you into another world. The
photographer Jürgen Frank captures the eerie magic of the Anatolian plateau, Susan Wirth is exhilarated
by five days in the saddle and David Barchard guides us through the epic
| Cornucopia
cannot resist returning to Cappadocia again and again: see Cornucopia 11 and Cornucopia
14 and for the wines, Cornucopia 31 Jürgen Frank's photographs made their debut in Cornucopia with his portrait of Josephine Powell, but his most celebrated work was his portrait of Istanbul in Cornucopia 32. Forthcoming issues will include a stunning portait of Bursa, the first major Ottoman
capital. |
|
ISTANBUL'S GRAND CENTRAL STATIONS |
MUST WE LOSE OUR
TEMPLES OF TRAVEL?
Articles by Andrew Finkel, Nancy Milford and Barnaby Rogerson | 
|
You embarked in Paris or Vienna and alighted at Sirkeci station, an Oriental fantasy in the shadow
of the Topkapõ palace. This was the train that brought Istanbul into the heart of modern Europe: the fabled
Orient Express. If you stepped down to the water’s edge, the Haydarpaþa station, that massive
German baronial pile, was just a short ferry ride away, the gateway to the Baghdad Railway. Together, the
buildings were designed to transform empire - the two bolts in a seamless passageway between London and the
Middle East. It is hardly surprising that they helped to inspire tales of great adventure, romance and
detective fiction.
That
was then. This, however, is now. Sirkeci and Haydarpaþa are currently the victims of a scheme that will
isolate them and consign them to oblivion. And you don't have to be Hercule Poirot to decide who is
responsible: it’s the developers. The historic railway will be rerouted away from the stations in order
to serve an underwater metro link connecting the European and Asian shores of the Bosphorus, leaving the
stations empty shells to be turned into shopping centres, themed hotels and the like. Surrounding real estate
will be sold off to the greatest short-term advantage.
According to the London-based Architectural Review, seven
Manhattan-style skyscrapers, 350m tall, will overshadow Haydarpaþa, forever destroying the ancient
skyline of one of the world's most beautiful shipping routes.
The whole scheme has largely progressed in secrecy and has been
pushed through without a word of public consultation, jettisoning the results of a national competition,
outraging architects the world over and jeopardising the city's status as a world heritage
site.
On these pages
three writers - and many images - celebrate the stations, the Orient Express and everything they stand for.
Before it’s too late.
| Travel notes by The Man in Seat 61 Special Travel package courtesy of
Elixir Travel for Cornucopia subscribers |
|
|
REPUTATIONS |
SETTING THE WORLD TO
RIGHTS
By David
Barchard The Hatt-i Humayun and the
Congress of Paris | 
|
In March 1856 the eyes of the world were on a group of men seated around a table at the Quai
d’Orsay. The future of Europe hung in the balance. On its 150th anniversary David Barchard reflects on
the Congress of Paris
A
nineteen-gun salute resounded over the wintery waters of the Sea of Marmara on Tuesday February 19, 1856,
proclaiming what was to prove the highest point in the Ottoman Empire’s fortunes in the nineteenth
century. The salute marked the departure of A’ali Pasha, the forty-one-year-old grand vizier, for
Marseille aboard the French frigate Sané. From there he would go to Paris where, as Turkey’s
plenipotentiary, he was to attend the Congress of Paris and negotiate a settlement on Turkey’s behalf in
the aftermath of the Crimean War...
| David
Barchard's remarkable nineteenth-century heroes and anti heroes include: The Man who Made Albania: Ismail Kemal's roller-coaster career in Cornucopia 34 The Doorman's Son who Saved the Empire: a profile
of Aali Pasha (also known as A'ali Pasha) in Cornucopia 31. The Wrong Side of History: the extraordinary
Strangfords in Cornucopia
29 BFG: Big Friendly Giant: Capt Fred Burnaby in Cornucopia 24 |
CONNOISSEUR |
COURTING SUCCESS: Painters who travelled East
Exhibitions and saleroom highlights from
London, Istanbul and Washington |     
| Featured in Cornucopia 35. Click on covers for Cornucopia's online newspage |
COOKERY |
SHAFTS OF LIGHT
The asparagus Text and photographs by Berrin Torolsan | 
|
Some like their asparagus translucently white, others prefer crunchy and green. Whatever your
choice, it takes lightness of touch to reveal the delicate flavour.
| |
BOOK & CD REVIEWS |
REVIEWS
BY
DONNA LANDRY MAUREEN FREELY DAVID BARCHARD & ATES
ORGA | 
PLUS TALES FROM
THE EXPAT HAREM, ED ANASTASIA ASHMAN AND JENNIFER EATON A BYZANTINE
SETTLEMENT IN CAPPADOCIA, BY ROBERT OUSTERHOUT  
Reviewed by
Ates Orga in Cornucopia 35 | |
 | PLUS Private View, by
Andrew Finkel & Village Voices, by Azize Ethem | |
ADD CORNUCOPIA 35 TO BASKET THE COMPLETE
CORNUCOPIA ORDER BACK ISSUES
|
|