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Cover story
The holy mountain
The story of Ottoman Athos
by Anthony Bryer with photographs by Graham Speake

Athos unveiled: an unprecedented portrait of the glorious backdrop to a thousand years of unworldly devotion and Byzantine intrigue

For more than a millennium Ayanoros, better known to the West as Mount Athos, has been a spiritual beacon to Orthodox believers. Yet the world's oldest political entity flourished most brilliantly under Ottoman rule. Two scholars who have had a lifelong interest in this jealously isolated community give a unique insider's view. Anthony Bryer, the eminent Byzantanist, gives a personal account. Graham Speake, as secretary of the Friends of Mount Athos, has been in a privileged position to take the photographs

24 pages, 32 illustrations, 1 map

Top: St Paul's. Money from the Ottoman dominions turned the monasteries into small cities.

Below:Vatopedi. Balcomies projecting from the upper stories give the appearance of an Ottoman country house.



Travel

The shipping news
by Amicia de Moubray with photographs by Sigurd Kranendonk

The seaside village of Göcek, on the mountainous coast of Lycian Turkey, has kept monster resorts at bay. On both land and sea, visitors can still indulge in the luxury of peace. Amicia de Moubray tells the tale of the good ship Melek.

 

The Melek, Haldun Simavi's three-mast schooner built in Eregli on the Black Sea coast. It is said that Rudolf Nureyev had his heart set on buying her from Simavi but that was not to be, for the dancer died before he could make her his own.


The Lycian Way walking the coastal trail by Kate Clow
Also in Cornucopia 15, Andrew Finkel interviews Kate Clow at the outset of her now hugely successful waymarking project.

Beaufort's 1812 map of the coast
Cornucopia 27

The Lycian coast by land with Barnaby Rogerson and Rose Baring
Cornucopia 10

Home is where the yurt is
by Richard Tredennick-Titchen with photographs by Sigurd Kranendonk

Out of sight of the sea, high above Göcek Marina, another green peace prevails. In a hidden valley, Richard Tredennick-Titchen found an encampment of yurts that dramatically changed his life.


Nomads in Anatolia by Harald Bohmer and Josephine Powell

Four men and a snowcock
Text and photographs by Napier Shelton

One of Turkey's finest birds is the grouse-like Caspian snowcock. To find it takes some organising, for it lives way above the summer pastures in remote areas such as the Aladaglar, the highest part of the Taurus Mountains.

 

Evening clouds wreathe the Taurus Mountains at the southern end of the snowcock's range. Beneath them lies the summer camp of the villagers of Cukurbag.

Cornucopia 17
Lammergeiers or lamb-vultures

Countryside

The primrose path
Text and photographs by Andrew Byfield

In the garden we may take them for granted, but in the wild, their colours make the heart sing. Andrew Byfield celebrates the vibrant beauty of Turkey's primulas.


Flowers of Anatolia

The Most Beautiful Wildflowers of Turkey
 

Botany features by Andrew Byfield:

Cornucopia 25 Orchids

Cornucopia 16 Rare bulbs

Cornucopia 13 Rhododendrons

Cornucopia 11 Snowdrops

Cookery

The noble heart
The globe artichoke
Text and photographs by Berrin Torolsan

A glorious thistle, the artichoke merits better than the usual simple boiling, especially if it is the giant Turkish globe, with its huge mouth-watering centre. Berrin Torolsan reveals how to do it justice

The recipes:

Enginar Oturmasi
Stuffed Artichoke Hearts
Zeytinyagli Enginar
Artichokes with Olive Oil
Baklali Enginar
Artichoke Hearts with Broad Beans
Enginar Yapragi Dolmasi
Stuffed Artichoke Hearts
Enginar Izgara
Grilled Artichokes
Creme d'Artichoke
 

For a complete list of Berrin Torolsan's cookery stories in Cornucopia,
see our cookery index.
Selected recipes are also available online: menus.

Architecture

 

Some corner of a foreign land
The Turkish bath at Tsarskoye Selo
by Rose Baring with photographs by Francesco Venturi

On the Great Lake of the Catherine Palace at Tsarskoye Selo, outside St Petersburg, stands this peaceful Turkish bath, an ironic legacy of a century of intermittent warfare.

Books on Turkish architecture

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Regular Features:


Restaurant Reviews
by Andrew Finkel and Christopher Ryan

Book reviews by David Barchard, Maureen Freely, Guy Kirwin and David Moray

Art: Marianne Angersbach by John Ash

Diary: Norman Stone from Ankara, Andrew Finkel from Istanbul, Azize Ethem from Marmaris

Trade Secrets:

Yelda Bayraktar's Flower House by Elizabeth Meath Baker

Shopping, Travel, Property & Hotel Directories

 
Cornucopia No 12: contents