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HIGHLIGHTS
CORNUCOPIA
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- In the summer issue...
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- THE CONQUEST OF KASHGAR
- Christian Tyler
on the plight of China's Turks
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- NOT-SO-GRAND
VIZIER
- David Barchard on the doorman's son who saved the empire
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- THE CALIPH'S DAUGHTER
- Omar Khalidi on
Cecil Beaton's fairy-tale princess
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- BLACK
DIAMONDS
- Berrin Torolsan on why the truffle is a cook's best friend
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- DAZZLERS OF THE TAURUS
- Martyn Rix on the
flowers that bring the high passes to life
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- VINTAGE
CAPPADOCIA
- Kevin Gould heads for the oldest vineyards in the world
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| CORNUCOPIA
Issue 31, 2004
Price: £16 ($32)
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All rights reserved 2004
Cover photograph: Ashley
Gilbertson
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COVER
STORY |  |
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- THE CONQUEST OF KASHGAR
- Christian Tyler on the plight of China's Turks
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- Half the people of China's far west are not Chinese at all - they are Uighurs, their language
Turkic, their religion Islam. This 36-page report on the Uighurs of Xinjiang highlights a poor,proud people
subsisting in a harsh desert under alien rule.
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- Text by Christian
Tyler
- Photographs by Ashley
Gilbertson
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- Christian Tyler is the author of Wild West China: The Taming of Xinjiang (John Murray, 2003), reviewed by Antony Wynn in Cornucopia 29
and available to Cornucopia subscribers, price £19.50, inc p&p worldwide.
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- Ashley Gilbertson is a photojournalist specialising in conflict zones. These images were taken in
August 2003 for Cornucopia. Gilbertson's photographs of Kirkuk
in northern Iraq appeared in Cornucopia 29 and
the Turks of western Thrace in Cornucopia 30
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- Photograph: the desert.
- The Taklamakan
is the world's second largest sand desert. The new highway across it provides access to the Dazhong oilfield
in the south. Nets and plantings are designed to keep the sands at bay
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- Related
articles in Cornucopia
Ashley Gilbertson's
photographs appear in City of Shadows: The Citadel of Kirkuk, by Owen Matthews Cornucopia 29 and Forgotten Corner of
a Distant Land: The Turks of Western Thrace Cornucopia 30 For another
article on Central Asia's Turkish legacy, see John Carswell's 'Despatch' from Inner Mongolia: The First
European in Kharakhoto for Forty Years', Cornucopia 13 |
| - Face of the
oasis:
- A young Uighur shows the aqualine profile
characterisitic of many inhabitants in the south and west of Xinjiang. The term Uighur is no longer an ethnic
one: it is applied to all oasis-dwellers to distinguish them from the Kazakhz and Kyrgyz, who belong to the
steppe and mountain areas.
|
| - Creating colour:
- The Id Kah Mosque's coffered roof is decorated in traditional
style. Even the smallest oases employ painters and carvers to work on poplar-wood columns and friezes and
panels. The rooms of many Uighur houses are hung with carpets, while every spare inch of wall and celing is
painted in bright colours. Imset panels often show scenes of lakes and oceans, though few Uighurs have ever
seen the sea, living as they do at the dead centre of the Asian landmass.
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TRAVEL | |
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- ALONG THE ROCKY ROAD
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- When spring arrives in the high
passes of the Taurus Mountains, a dazzling display of flowers comes out to greet it. Story and photographs by
Martyn Rix
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- Left:
Fritillaria crassifolia on dark serpentine rock, which is toxic to most plants. Photograph: Martyn
Rix
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- The author,
Martyn Rix, is the editor of Curtis's Botanical Magazine, founded in 1787 and published on behalf of the
Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew.
| -
- Related articles in
Cornucopia
Wild Beauties of the South:
flowers of the foothills and valleys of the Taurus Mountains
Cornucopia 29 |
REMARKABLE
LIVES | |
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- THE DOORMAN'S SON WHO SAVED THE EMPIRE
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- Born into penury, he rose to be revered across Europe. Yet the
Ottoman Empire's youngest ever grand vizier is all but forgotten at home. David Barchard charts the dramatic
career of the master strategist Ali Pasha
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- Photographs from The
Photographers of Constantinople, by Bahattin Oztuncay, available to Cornucopia
subscribers, price £149
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| -
- THE CALIPH'S DAUGHTER
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- Her life is the stuff of fairy
tales.Omar Khalidi tells the story of the princess who captivated Cecil Beaton.
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- Photograph of HIH Durrusehvar
Sultan, Princess of Berar, photographed by Cecil Beaton in 1944. From the exhibition 'Beaton's Portraits' at
the National Portrait Gallery, London, until May 31, 2004. Beaton's Portraits, the catalogue of the National
Portrait Gallery exhibition, is published in hardback at £35 and in paperback at
£9.99.
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- Omar Khalidi is a staff member of the Agha Khan program for
Islamic Architecture, Massachusetts Institute of Technology.
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| -
- PLAYING LIKE THE
DEVIL
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- Love him or loathe him, Fazil Say, the revolutionary young
Turkish pianist and composer, is blowing up a storm on the concert platfoirms of Europe. Christian Tyler met
a musician who is not afraid to live dangerously.
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- Photograph: Select
Music
| Five CDs of music performed by
Fazil Say are available from Cornucopia: See
Book and CD
Covers |
CONNOISSEUR | |
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Connoisseur reports from New York (Byzantium: Faith and Power at the Met); London
(the Hali Fair, Islamic art at Somerset House and the highlights of the Islamic sales); Istanbul (300 years
of fashion: the Alexandre Vassiliev Collection at the SSM)
| Barbara and
Zafer Baran's RHS stamps can be ordered online from the Royal Mail |
FOOD | |
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- BLACK DIAMONDS
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- All truffles conceal heady
charms beneatha rough exterior. But Turkish truffles are a democratic luxury - far less costly than France's
precious and more pungent tubers. Berrin Torolsan unearths simple local recipes to bring out the best in
these mysterious aromatic nuggets
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WINE | |
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- VINTAGE CAPPADOCIA
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- Is the fantastic Cappadocian
landscape about to become the new hotspot for wine-lovers? Kevin Gould heads for the oldest vineyards on
earth to find out.
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- Photographs by Frits Meyst
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| Travelling to
Cappadocia
this year? We suggest
you also try:
Cornucopia
No 11
and
Cornucopia No 35 |
TRADE SECRETS | |
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- PICKING UP THE PIECES
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- Ergun Yilmaz made
his reputation restoring china for museums and palaces. But he is also mending shattered dreams. Story and
photographs by Berrin Torolsan
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PLUS Book reviews including Philippa Scott on
Qatar's silken treasures, David Barchard welcoming a reprint of the first American travel book on Turkey;
Anthony Bryer on the bright young things who discovered Athos; Christopher Trillo on the sublime ritual of
the Turkish bath; and Charles Perry on the strange Byzantine palate. CD reviews by Ates Orga ranging from the new Harnoncourt version of
Haydn's Military symphony to urban ladino music by Hadass Pal-Yarden and Emre Araci's 19th-century musical
vignettes from the Ottoman court, Bosphorus by Moonlight. Vilillage
Voices by Azize Ethem; Restauruant
reviews from chargrilled liver for breakfast a la Diyarbakir to brick-hard yoghurt at
Ciya on the Bosphorus. Musical events
including the Istanbul Festival and the Hackney Empire's Turkfest.
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