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Cover story
The Ottoman Riviera
Some Enchanted Evenings: The story of the Ratip Efendi Yali by Patricia Daunt with interior photographs by Fritz von der Schulenburg and archive photographs courtesy of Mrs Suna Mardin

In the 1950s, a palely beautiful summerhouse on the Bosphorus made tbe perfect playground for the cream of café society. Now its luminous, airy rooms, emptied of fuss and colour, reveal their natural beauty. Patricia Daunt uncovers the colourful past of Ratip Efendi's yali.

Top: Aboard Faisal's yacht, from left Prince Ahmet, the King, Fazileh, her mother Hanzade Sultan, Ceyda Ratip and the present owner of the house, Suna Mardin.

Middle: The elegant double staircase, flooded with natural light, is one of the great features of the house.

Below: Ebubakir Ratip's Rolls-Royce, with luggage rack and chauffer, in the Swiss Alps.


Ebubakir Ratip Efendi,
replendent in fez and monocle

 

 

More beautiful Bosphorus yalis explored by Patricia Daunt

Arts

Carpet clues
by Philippa Scott

Philippa Scott continues her guide to the world of rug collecting.

Turkish Delights
by Philippa Scott

Connoisseur

Salerooms
Sales in London and Paris and a major Ottoman exhibition at Versailles.

Part of a map of the Bosphorus drawn circa 1780 by Jean-Denis Barbie Bocage auctioned in Paris in 1999

International auctions of Turkish arts

 

Cornucopia's online Arts Diary

The Grand Parade
by Christine Thomson with illustrations from Surname-i Humayun: an Imperial Celebration, by Nurhan Atasoy

When Ottoman sultans wanted to outshine European monarchs by the end of the sixteenth century they were choosing elaborate entertainments as their ammunition rather than solemn victory processions. In the second article in her series on East-West rivalry, Christine Thomson focuses on the Istanbul festivities of 1582, a spectacular street party lasting almost two months.

 

 

 

 

Florists carrying fruit

Order the book
Levni and the Suname

by Esin Atil

Travel

A hard day's sailing
by Christian Tyler with photographs by Sigurd Kranendonk

Some take the hard dusty route to the Mediterranean's ancient sites. Christian Tyler approached them the hedonist's way: cruising on a gulet along some of the most breathtaking coastline in the world.

Kate Clow and Jacqueline de Gier sail east of Antalya
Cornucopia 23

Amicia de Moubray sails the Lycian shore from Gocek
Cornucopia 15

Barnaby Rogerson and Rose Baring explore the Lycian shore by land.
Cornucopia 10

Beaufort's map of the south coast
Cornucopia 27

The Lycian Way walking trails
by Kate Clow

Whistling down the wind
text and photographs by Andriette Stathi-Schoorel

Two isolated villages share an Ancient way of communicating across mountainous ravines. Andriëtte Stathi-Schoorel captures the last echoes in Greece and Turkey

In Kuskoy (Bird Village), in the Eastern Black Sea Mountains, the ancient art of whistling is still taught to schoolchildren. It is in these very mountains, south of Trabzon, that Xenophon came upon a similar use of whistling nearly 2500 years ago. Only five communities in the world are known to share the ability to whistle their speech. All of them, whether in Greece, Mexico, the Canaries or the Pyrenees – inhabit steep mountain valleys.

 

Last man down the Danube
by John Herbert

It was the journey of a lifetime. Shortly before the Danube bridges were bombed and its waters polluted, John Herbert sailed Europe's inland waterways to Istanbul

 

People & places

Living legends


Seven hundred years of history came full circle in September 1999 when the exiled membersof the Ottoman family flew in from around the globe for a reunion in a former palace by the Bosphorus. Azize Ethem, an Ottoman princess by marriage, tells the tale of Turkey's most fascinating dynasty.

 

 

 

A genealogical tree of the first thirty Ottomansultans, from Osman I (1299-1324) to Mahmut II (1808-1839) sold at Christie's London in June 1999

Also in this issue,
the
Whittall family tree

Cookery

A vine romance
text and photographs by Berrin Torolsan

What plant can match the bounty of the vine? For thousands of years man has enjoyed the succelence of the grape, the headiness of its wines, its capacity to heal. But the fruit is not its only gift. Its lush green leaves, which offer dappled shelter from the summer sun, also create the perfect wrapping, bringing their delicate, delectable tang to the simplest foods.

Recipes:
Stuffed vine leaves in olive oil
Grilled sardines wrapped in vine leaves
Cucumber pickle
Tabbouleh with fresh vine leaves
Dill cheese wrapped in vine leaves

For a complete list of Berrin Torolsan's cookery stories in Cornucopia,
see our
cookery index
.
Selected recipes are also available online:
menus.

Gardens

Seven gardens for seven heavens
A Turkish-inspired garden on the Cambridge Fens
by John Drake with photographs by Berrin Torolsan

Two Turkish passions meet in John Drake's beautiful garden: a love of symmetry and an Abundance of wild flowers. Here the garden historian acknowledges his debt to the Turkish ideal of paradise on earth.

 

 

Top: timber pergolas recall in shape massive Anatolian türbe

 

Below: a collection of fine plants collected from seed near Savsat in northeast Turkey and Geranium Aspholoides, which grows at the edge of deciduous woods

More Turkish gardens

Cornucopia 13

Cornucopia 29

Add to basket

Arts

Collecting carpets by Philippa Scott

Connoisseur Diary

Trade Secrets

Telos Cam: art glass by Fahri Kaplan

Music
Aisling Fallon at the 27th International Istanbul Music festival

Regular Features:

Village Voices by
Azize Ethem


Restaurant Reviews


Wine tasting by Umut Ulkumen

Book reviews

Profile: Ismail Cem by Andrew Finkel

Shopping, Travel, Property & Hotel Directories

 
Cornucopia Issue 18: The Ottoman