Cornucopia 29 Highlights

The Cornucopia website ISSUE 29 HIGHLIGHTS CORNUCOPIA is the award winning magazine on Turkey and Turkish culture SUBSCRIBE ADD TO BASKET Back issue covers Books Search the Site SUBSCRIBE ADD TO BASKET Back issue covers Books SUBSCRIBE ADD TO BASKET Back issue covers Books SUBSCRIBE ADD TO BASKET Back issue covers Books	The Internet extension of Cornucopia, the magazine for connoisseurs of Turkey *^cornucopia.^net*** HOME
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				CORNUCOPIA Issue 29, 2003, £10 (US$20) SUBSCRIBE Volume 1 1 2 3 4 5 6 Volume 2 special volume offer 7 8 9 10 11 12 Volume 3 special volume offer 13 14 15 16 17 18 Volume 4 special volume offer 19 20 21 22 23 24 Volume 5 special volume offer 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 Special Istanbul Edition 32 Volume 6 33 34 35 36 37 ADD TO BASKET SUBSCRIBE
	Cornucopia 29, 2003
	CORNUCOPIA NO 29 COVER STORY
	Ottoman Istanbul THE OTTOMAN PLEASURE GARDEN How gardens became an art form, by John Carswell			The Ottomans were not only passionate about flowers. They turned the enjoyment of gardens into an art form. John Carswell leafs through a lavish volume which unlocks the gate to the pleasure grounds of Istanbul's Ottoman palaces. Above left: Beykoz Kasri, built in the first half of the 19th century. Below left: Saadabad, early 18th century. Both images can be found in this 12-page special feature article	This article offers the highlights of Nurhan Atasoy's book Garden for the Sultan, which is now out of print. The book is reviewed by John Drake (click cover) If you are interested in gardens and gardening history in Turkey, we recommend Cornucopia 13, a special garden issue

	FEATURES
	Kirkuk after the War CITY OF SHADOWS The Citadel of Kirkuk, by Owen Matthews with photographs by Ashley Gilbertson			Under the Ottomans, Kirkuk's ancient citadel was the heart of a thriving cosmopolitan city. But politics and oil have reduced it to a deserted ruin. Owen Matthews, who has been covering Iraq for several years, visited Kirkuk at the end of the Iraq war. Ashley Gilberton's dramatic photography accompanies this moving article by Newsweek's Istanbul correspondent.	The writer Owen Matthews and photographer Ashley Gilbertson also cooperated on an article on the Turks of Thrace in Forgotten Corner of a Foreign Land. See Cornucopia 30. Ashley Gilbertson's photographs illustrate Christian Tyler's article Turks of China. See Cornucopoia 31
				'The ghost of the citadel of Kirkuk - or Kerkük as the Turks know it - appears at dawn when the dowmes and minarets of the old city are picked out by the sunrise and its walls seem whole. In the half-light, the citadel hill looks grand and brooding, and you can imagine that the city is sleeping, instead of dead. Only when the light strengthens do you see that the heart of what was once a thriving and ancient trading centre, one of the southernmost outposts of Turkish civilisation, is now just an empty husk....' Owen Matthews, A City of Shadows, Cornucopia 29

	The Aegean MARY'S HOUSE By Donal Carroll The dream that led to the Virgin's house at Ephesus Order the book			In the closing years of the nineteenth century, the Aegean coast of Turkey witnessed three of the greatest archaeological finds of all time. The discovery of Ephesus and Troy made international headlines overnight. But the third - an unassuming stone house in an isolated forest - was immediately enveloped in secrecy
	TURKEY'S WILD FLOWERS
	The Taurus Mountains WILD FLOWERS OF THE DEEP SOUTH Text and photographs by Martyn Rix			Martyn Rix sidesteps the concrete condos of the Turkish Riviera to go searching for native flowers. In the valleys of the Taurus Mountains and on the unspoilt rocky headlands of the coast, he finds wild gladioli, tassel hyacinths, Persian fritillaries - and an ancient survivor of the Ice Age (left)	Alsoby Martyn Rix: see Cornucopia 26 (the wild flowers of Mt Ida) and Cornucopia 31 (wild flowers of the high Taurus Mts)
	ARCHITECTURE
	The Mediterranean THE HOUSE ON THE HILL A modern classic in Kalkan By Andrew Finkel. Photographs by James Mortimer			Dipping into a Mediterranean idyll, Stephen and Nina Solarz have built a haven high above the harbour at Kalkan. Andrew Finkel paid them a visit.	New architecture also features in Cornucopia 34: The Spirit's Wake, by Patricia Daunt, the story of a new boutique hotel on the Bosphorus, with photographs by Jürgen Frank

	CONNOISSEUR
	Connoisseur IZNIK Iznik ceramics on show in Qatar, with a review of the catalogue by Godfrey Goodwin			A small but perfectly formed exhibition of Iznik pottery held in Qatar has given birth to a fittingly exquisite catalogue	Important pieces of Iznik and Kütahya pottery often appear on the art market and can be found in Cornucopia's Connoisseur pages. The magnficent catalogue for the Qatar exhibition is regrettably not permitted to be sold by the Doha Museum outside Qatar. The title has therefore been removed from Cornucopia's Books List. For the connection between Iznik and Chinese porcelain, see An Odyssey in Blue, by John Carswell (Cornucopia 25)

	Daguerreotypes ALCHEMY ON A PLATE The first photographs of Istanbul, by Elizabeth Meath Baker. Photographs courtesy of Christie's London			Recently sold for record prices, the magical daguerreotypes plates iof Istanbul in the 1840s in this article are the earliest known photographic images of the city. They are the work of Joseph-Philibert Girault de Prangey, an obsessive Frenchman with a passion for Islamic architecture.
	REMARKABLE LIVES
	Great Victorians ON THE WRONG SIDE OF HISTORY By David Barchard			They were a family of Turcophiles with more brains than wealth or political judgement. David Barchard chronicles the lives of the remariable Strangfords

	Reputations THE QUIET REVOLUTIONARY Namðk Kemal and his life in London, by Osman Streater			Patriot, poet, playwright, historian, exile, prisoner, fourtimes provincial governor and founder of the movement which led to the Young Turks... the life of namik Kemal was all action and incident. Osman Streater assesses his forebear's pivotal role in the development of modern Turkey
	COOKERY
	Cookery SOLAR POWER Tomatoes and Turkish tomato recipes Text and photographs by Berrin Torolsan			Red peppers, chillies, maize and sunflowers set the Mediterranean ablaze with their pungent flavours and fiery colours. But of the Aztecs' gifts it is the tomato above all that tastes of the sun. The recipes: Domates Çorbasi (two different tomato soups), Domates Yemegi (tomatoes with sweet basil), Domates Dolmasi (stuffed tomatoes), Domatesli Bulgur Pilavi (bulgur pilav with tomato)	For a complete list of Berrin Torolsan's cookery stories in Cornucopia, see our cookery index. Selected recipes are also available online: menus. For a selection of cookery books, go to Cornucopia's Food and Wine page
	NO 29 TRADE SECRETS
	Istanbul shopping MADE TO LAST Beyoglu's last bespoke shoe shops, by Owen Matthews. Photographs by Berrin Torolsan			A handful of tightly knit artisans still make bespoke shoes in Istanbul. Owen Matthews steps out in search of the footwear families of Istanbul.	Cornucopia's Trade Secrets series also includes: Master of Plaster: a Beyoglu plaster cast hoard (Cornucopia 23); Sweetness and Light: Bursa's marron glacé (Cornucopia 25); Blue is the Colour of..., the glass bead-makers of Izmir (Cornucopia 26); Fine Fast Food, güllaç pancakes (Cornucopia 27)
	NO 29 ISTANBUL DIARY
	Istanbul Diary Lifiting the veil on the arts in Istanbul: special reports by Hettie Judah and Andrew Finkel			From the languid to the sublime to the electrifying, Hettie Judaj takes in the festival scene, as Andrew Finkel hears the shocking plans of this year's Biennial curator Dan Cameron Far left: Pina Bausch's Istanbul Project (photo: Muammer Yilmaz). Left: Dan Cameron, curator of the Istanbul Biennial 2003 (photo: New Museum of Contemporary Art, New York) Also see Cornucopia's online arts diary
	PLUS BOOKS JOHN DRAKE Nurhan Atasoy's A Garden for the Sultan ANTONY WYNN Wild West China: The Taming of Xinjiang, by Christian Tyler NORMAN STONE Heath Lowry's The Nature of the Early Ottoman State DAVID BARCHARD The Alevis in Turkey, by David Shankla nd. To read reviews and see book offers, visit the Cornucopia Bookshop REGULAR COLUMNS PRIVATE VIEW Andrew Finkel, newly back from a year in Middle America, airs his views on Turkey's role in the Iraq conflict, wonders what has really changed in his absence and feels glad to be home VILLAGE VOICES Azize Ethem puzzles over the appearance of a mysterious doctor and the disappeaance of a local character, ponders life from her woven shepherd's hut, learns to live with a bodyguard and wins an unexpected award OFF THE EATEN TRACK Charles Perry , Arabist and food historian, continues his culinary travels across the Asian steppes. EATING OUT: RESTAURANT REVIEWS ETC: Andrew Finkel stays cool on hot nights. Hettie Judah follows the Ferrari set and Christopher Ryan goes east in Edinburgh (also see Christopher Ryan on Iznik Restaurant, Islington - Iznik Restaurant reviewed - full text)
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